The fifth wheel assembly defined in claim 1 including a spring attached to the locking jaw and biasing said jaw toward the unlocked position.ħ. The fifth wheel assembly as defined in claim 1 including a stop member engageable with the locking lever to limit movement of the locking lever in locking direction.Ħ. The fifth wheel assembly defined in claim 2 wherein the clevis is formed with a slot and in which the locking lever is received in and secured by a pivot pin in said slot.ĥ. The fifth wheel assembly defined in claim 2 wherein the piston rod is operatively engaged with the clevis to move the clevis toward an unlatched position against the spring bias when the piston rod is actuated.Ĥ. The fifth wheel assembly defined in claim 1 wherein the safety latch includes a pivotally mounted clevis spring biased toward a latched position.ģ. A fifth wheel assembly for locking and unlocking a king pin of a trailer to a tractor comprising: a support plate having an open V slot for receiving and releasing the king pin from the fifth wheel assembly a locking jaw mounted on the support plate and movable between locked and unlocked positions with the king pin a locking bar slidably engaged with the locking jaw and movable towards and away from said locking jaw to retain said locking jaw in the locked position with the king pin a locking lever mounted on the locking bar for moving said locking bar between locking and unlocking engagement with the locking jaw a power actuated piston rod operatively connected to the locking lever for moving said locking lever and locking bar toward the unlocked position, said piston rod containing a floating rod movably mounted within a hollow interior of said piston rod and a safety latch mounted on the floating rod and connected to the locking lever to restrict movement of the locking lever, locking bar and locking jaw toward the unlocked position with the king pin until the piston rod is actuated by a power source.Ģ. Don't forget to do the toe in if you did the tie rod ends.1. From here it's installation of all the parts. You'll know what I mean from the instructions and the parts in front of you.Īfter installation the knuckles should move freely with very very little resistance. You want to be able to tap in the bearings with some resistance. Don't forget to shim everything fairly tight. It can also be tricky putting in the spiral bushings, but once you get the hang of it you'll be fine. You also have to load up the bearing with grease. The Kaiser kingpin set comes with good instructions. Clean everything up real nice, including the axle eye. This can take a lot of work.Īfter the knuckle is removed you take the seals and the bushings out (with previously mentioned bushing driver). After the caps are removed you remove the draw keys and should be able to pound the kingpins out. Eventually the nut broke and my dad welded a rod to the kingpin cap. I had screw in ones and had to put 800 + ft lbs on a very shallow nut. Depending on style they can be a real bitch. To remove the steering knuckle you need to remove the upper and lower kingpin caps. Also check your wheel bearings/races and replace if necessary. Brake chambers to make it easier to take the knuckles off, but not necessaryĪt this point I would recommend a new drag link, new tie rod ends, Check your s-cams and bushings/ replace if necessary. Dial indicator for setting up wheel bearings I highly recommend Kaiser qwik-kit kingpins Brake shoe removal tool (or large pliers) Kingpin bushing installer tool (kaiser makes one for their spiral bushings if you go that route) Wheel nut removal tools, preferably air Have you done wheel bearings and wheel seals before? If I embark on this adventure, how much time should I plan on it taking? Any suggestions on where I might get more reasonably prices parts than what Peterbilt will offer? Any non-standard tools I might need? Any tips, tricks or suggestions anybody can offer would be greatly appreciated. Given that I have my own shop and, while I’m no mechanic I am a pretty accomplished parts-swapper, should this job be easily within the scope of my abilities, or should I go down to my local Cummins dealer and let them rape me like they usually do? My problem is that I’ve never done this before and don’t want to turn a minor problem into something major and very expensive. My tractor (2006 Pete 387) is no spring chicken (858k miles), and as I’ve been experiencing some unusual steer tire wear (yes, it is properly aligned and I have Road King shocks and Centramtics and Tru-Balance wheel centering sleeves), thought I might try replacing the king pins. I know I’ve seen a post on here on the same topic, but I couldn’t find it, so here goes…
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